Set within the gardens of the Musée Rodin in Paris, an installation crafted by Italian artist Isabella Ducrot graced the walls of the room showcasing the haute couture collection curated by Maria Grazia Chiuri. Named Big Aura, this grandiose creation featured twenty-three oversized dresses towering at approximately five meters high.
Maria Grazia Chiuri, the Creative Director of Dior women’s lines, interprets Big Aura as a symbol of the aura that imbues each haute couture piece. Drawing inspiration from Walter Benjamin’s definition of aura, reflecting the uniqueness and authenticity of artwork, Chiuri explores this concept within haute couture, representing the pinnacle of excellence and the essence of fashion. The La Cigale dress, originally designed by Christian Dior for his fall-winter 1952 collection, serves as the collection’s starting point due to its sculptural construction and moiré fabric.
The undulating and iridescent qualities of moiré manifest in a rich palette of gold, burgundy, blue, and red hues. The collection showcases architectural elegance through coats featuring imposing collars, wide skirts with exaggerated cut-outs, layered garments, and contemporary renditions of trench coat-inspired silhouettes. Black velvet dresses capture flowing motion, while capes elongate silhouettes, including a luxurious feather version draped over an embroidered double organza dress.
The intricate embroidery craftsmanship plays with transparency, and the Millefiori motif embellishes an elegant yellow moiré dress. Polka dots and pleats, including those on an immaculate white dress, perpetuate the artistic aura synonymous with haute couture.