This season, Sarah Burton turns inward and outward at once, tracing femininity back to its most enduring source: strength. Not the obvious kind, but the quiet, self possessed force that lives in gesture, posture, and choice. Through a nuanced meditation on dressing and undressing, Burton reframes femininity as something both revealed and withheld, light in touch yet unwavering in presence.
The collection unfolds from an intentional unravelling of tailoring. Classic structures are softened, opened, and reimagined with a sensitivity to the body beneath. Cropped tailored jackets curve gently at the sleeve and bare the waist with ease. Low rise slacks sit closer to the hip, while bodysuits play with tension, their angular edges softened by fluid lines. Beneath sharply cut jackets, bra tops appear not as provocation but as quiet assertion, collapsing the boundary between what is worn and what is usually concealed.
Elsewhere, silhouettes invite air and movement. Coats fall open at the collar, exposing the neck with confidence rather than drama. Skirts are cut with deep slits that animate the stride. Dresses take on a sculptural clarity, merging the discipline of tailoring with the intimacy of corsetry. Fabric follows the body naturally, then gently resists it, creating a dialogue between control and release. What emerges is a new equilibrium between garment and form, one that feels considered rather than constrained.
As the collection reveals itself, the conversation expands beyond exposure alone. Modesty and deviation begin to mirror one another. A pristine white shirt meets the shine of a leather wrap skirt. A fragile lace dress is grounded by the weight of an oversized biker jacket. These intentional collisions sharpen the focus on Burton’s central idea: femininity is not singular, but layered, contradictory, and deeply expressive.
Tulle and mesh bring a softer register to the story, enveloping the body with a sense of suspended motion. Mesh dresses appear almost inflated with air, their structure shaped from lightness itself. Tulle is folded and refolded, creating volume that drifts rather than weighs, like fabric remembering the movement of clouds.
The most arresting moments come where delicacy meets momentum. Petal like ruffles cascade across sheer tulle dresses. Feathered mesh skirts pulse with energy as they move. Transparency and motion work in concert, amplifying the wearer’s physical presence rather than diminishing it. Here, femininity is not ornamental. It is active, embodied, and undeniably powerful.
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