Culinary Expeditions Guide in Southwest Germany

Good food is a vital part of the vacation experience, particularly when it comes to local dishes made with local produce, accompanied by local beers and wines.  SouthWest Germany is criss-crossed with well-signposted, well-maintained hiking and biking trails through glorious countryside.  But it’s not only nature lovers, who enjoy the Great Outdoors. Foodies also have a terrific choice of themed trails that bring out their inner gourmet. 

Sandwiched between the beautiful palaces of Bruchsal and Schwetzingen that are maintained by the State Palaces and Gardens of Baden-Wuerttemberg, one of Europe’s largest asparagus growing areas is just south of Heidelberg. The mild climate and sandy soil provide the perfect growing conditions to produce the delicate flavor that makes the (mostly) white asparagus such a treat! The biking trail between Bruchsal and Schwetzingen is flat and easy to ride and the best time to visit is during the peak season from mid-April to the end of June 24. Along the 67 mile route, taverns and restaurants serve freshly-picked asparagus prepared in a variety of ways: hot with Hollandaise sauce; cold with vinaigrette; as a partner to ham or salmon.

And year-round, there are many attractions to visit, including the Rococco palace of Bruchsal with its world class furniture and tapestry collection and Schwetzingen Palace and its impressive gardens, where white asparagus is said to have started over 350 years ago in the king’s garden. Heavily bombed during the war, Bruchsal has been gloriously restored while Schwetzingen has maintained royal gardens.  Excellent restaurants next to both palaces are a perfect start and end to your trip.

Distillery Trails

The Schnapsbrunnenwege, the Schnapps Distillery Trails, could be some of the world’s most unusual hiking routes. Along Black Forest paths, ten ‘schnapps fountains’ offer hikers free samples of locally-distilled spirits. The region in the Black Forest around the town of Oberkirch just south of the spa town of Baden-Baden is renowned for its small family distilleries. These hardworking families transform locally-grown apricots, cherries and apples into Schnapps, world-class fruit brandies.

On the trails around Sasbachwalden, bottles of schnapps cool naturally in the mountain spring water of the ‘Schnapps fountains’. Hikers can help themselves to free samples or leave a few Euros for other drinks, such as liqueurs, ciders and soft drinks for children. Two trails start from Sasbachwalden. Allow two hours for the northern loop (7 km/4 miles) and four hours for the southern (12 km/7.7 miles).

Wine Cycle Trail

Cyclists, who are also wine lovers, should put the Württemberg Wine Cycle Trail at the top of their ‘to do’ list. The 220 mile route links popular winemaking destinations between Niederstetten and Rottenburg am Neckar in the beautiful Tauber and Neckar valleys. Stop and taste in wineries and Besenwirtschaften, which are smaller seasonal wine taverns that got their name from the Besen, or broom, outside the main door.

Time it right and you could enjoy one of the regular village wine festivals along the route. For more in-depth knowledge, join a wine tour or visit a wine museum. Württemberg is Germany’s fourth largest wine growing region and is best known for its red wine, especially Pinot Noir and local favourites, Trollinger and Lemberger. But white grapes also thrive in the sun, producing excellent Riesling and Müller-Thurgau. This wine road is especially nice as it is close to Stuttgart so you can easily combine a trip to the capital city of cars and culture with delicious and adventurous wines. 

Beer Trails

Beer Culture City: that is the self-proclaimed title of the small, historic community of Ehingen, 90 minutes southeast of Stuttgart. And, with four breweries that produce some 43 different beers, it is no idle boast! The 550-year-old Berg Brewery is a family business dating back nine generations. Local barley, malt, hops and water are the ingredients for their eight bottom-fermented beers and five seasonal brews. The town’s other breweries are the Schwanen Brewery, the Brauerei Schwert and the Brauerei zum Rössle. All are on the Bierwanderweg, the Beer Hiking Trail, whose 9 mile route also includes historic buildings and the scenic Danube Valley.

Two hours south of Stuttgart, one of SouthWest Germany’s best-known breweries is also Germany’s highest, set 3,300 feet up in the Black Forest. Originally a small monastic brewery, Rothaus became the Baden State Brewery. Now, after 220 years, it is a favorite of beer lovers around the world. Along the brewery’s Zäpfle Weg (Zäpfle Trail) are information boards and pavilions with explanations of beer making: everything from raw materials and the art of brewing to environmental responsibility. You can even peer through a window to watch 60,000 bottles being filled every hour. A popular selfie spot is the Zäpfle Fountain, where a giant beer bottle sprays water from the spring used for brewing. 

Yach Bread Trail

In the southern Black Forest, a couple of hours southwest of Stuttgart, is the unspoiled Yach Valley. Here, many farming families still bake their own bread the traditional way. Now, the Brotweg Yach, the Yach Bread Trail, links several of these farms, so that hikers can enjoy both the landscape – and the bread! 

The clearly-marked path is seven miles long and takes in clear streams, dense forest and lush mountain meadows. Hikers can stop for refreshments at family-run farms. Vesper (German for a hearty snack) is a tradition in these parts: slices of smoked local ham, fried potatoes with soft white cheese, apple juice and that homemade bread. With luck, you will arrive just as a loaf comes out of the wood-fired oven!

Tettnang Hops 

Grown near Lake Constance, Tettnang hops are SouthWest Germany’s gift to the brewing world. Learn why by walking the Tettnang Hop Trail. Along its 2 miles are orchards and hop gardens, plus spectacular views of Lake Constance and even the snow-tipped Alps. Learn about the hop-growing tradition that dates back to 1150 and, of course, the art of brewing. The tour starts at the Krone Brewery in the center of Tettnang and finishes at the Hopfengut Nº20 hop farm. Discover more about growing and drying hops, then visit the brewery, museum, shop and restaurant to complete the ultimate hop experience. The 12th Tettnang Hop Hiking Day is set to take place on August 7, 2022.