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Van Cleef & Arpels Marks a Century of Art Deco With a Dazzling Tokyo Exhibition

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There are exhibitions that simply present jewelry, and then there are those that invite you into a living narrative of beauty, ambition, and cultural memory. Next autumn, the Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum opens its doors to one such rare encounter: “Eternal Moments — Van Cleef & Arpels: High Jewelry Speaks of Art Deco,” a celebration of the 100th anniversary of the 1925 Art Deco Exposition and a tribute to the Maison that helped define its radiance. From September 27, 2025, through January 18, 2026, the museum’s historic former Prince Asaka residence—one of Japan’s most exquisite surviving expressions of Art Deco architecture—becomes a stage for nearly a century of creativity.

“Collet Necklace,” 1929, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
“Collet Necklace,” 1929, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

Art Deco was not merely a style; it was a pulse that coursed through 1920s Europe, electrifying everything from interiors to jewelry. Van Cleef & Arpels stood at the heart of that energy. When the Maison presented pieces such as the Interlaced Flowers, Red and White Rose Bracelet at the Paris exposition, it captured the Grand Prix and crystallized a vision of modern glamour that still feels uncannily contemporary. In Tokyo, that bracelet returns as a luminous prologue: ruby petals paired with yellow diamonds, white roses sculpted from diamonds of icy brilliance, and branches articulated in onyx. The bracelet embodies a sensual geometry that defined the era and continues to shape the Maison’s identity.

“Landscape Powder Case,” 1930, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
“Landscape Powder Case,” 1930, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

Moving through the museum’s lacquered hallways and gilded salons, the exhibition unfurls as both a historical journey and an intimate dialogue with craftsmanship. The Rose Brooch, its petals paved with diamonds and its thorns symbolically realized in rubies, presents nature reimagined through the rational elegance of the period. Brooches and rings in emerald, onyx, and diamond echo the era’s love of symmetry, contrast, and architectural clarity. A vanity case carved from deep lapis lazuli and adorned with diamonds presents a more playful facet of Art Deco—floral, sculptural, and unapologetically opulent.

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Left: “Vanity Case,” 1926; Center: “Evening Bag,” 1926; Right: “Vanity Case,” 1928 (All from the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection)
Left: “Vanity Case,” 1926; Center: “Evening Bag,” 1926; Right: “Vanity Case,” 1928 (All from the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection)

The Maison’s pursuit of dimensionality, so radical in the 1920s, takes shape in a necklace that reinterprets the masculine tie as high jewelry. Nearly a thousand diamonds create a ribbon-like cascade, its knot adjustable to the chest, shoulder, or back. The desire to harness light, movement, and form surfaces again in platinum bracelets, airy openwork necklaces, and a breathtaking emerald Collet Necklace from 1929, whose teardrop emerald radiates with an almost hypnotic intensity.

Left: “Evening Bag,” 1927 Center, top: “Rose Brooch,” 1925 Center, bottom: “Rose Vanity Case,” 1926 Right: “Bracelet,” 1925 (All from the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection)
Left: “Evening Bag,” 1927 Center, top: “Rose Brooch,” 1925 Center, bottom: “Rose Vanity Case,” 1926 Right: “Bracelet,” 1925 (All from the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection)

Van Cleef & Arpels has always understood that adornment is also a mirror of its time. The minaudière—a small case designed to hold a woman’s evening essentials—speaks to the era’s shifting social rhythms. The Camellia Minaudière, with its mirror-topped lid and perfectly fitted compartments, reveals how beauty and functionality became intertwined in the modern woman’s life. The Cadenas Wristwatch from 1943 adds an intimate note: a timepiece angled so only the wearer can read it, reflecting a period when elegance and discretion were expected to coexist.

Top row, from left: “Lorgnette,” 1927; “Collet Necklace,” 1928; “Wristwatch,” 1926; “Bracelet,” 1925 Bottom row, from left: “Pyramid Clip,” circa 1932; “Clip,” 1932, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection; “Bracelet,” 1928; “Bracelet,” 1927 (All from the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection)
Top row, from left: “Lorgnette,” 1927; “Collet Necklace,” 1928; “Wristwatch,” 1926; “Bracelet,” 1925 Bottom row, from left: “Pyramid Clip,” circa 1932; “Clip,” 1932, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection; “Bracelet,” 1928; “Bracelet,” 1927 (All from the Van Cleef & Arpels Collection)

The exhibition extends into decorative arts as well. Nightlights in rose quartz, ashtrays sculpted from agate, an amethyst table clock carved with a mother-and-child monkey—these objects remind us that, for the Maison, artistry was never confined to adornment. It was a way of seeing the world.

In the museum’s new wing, the narrative shifts to the Maison’s enduring savoir-faire. Nature, long a muse for Van Cleef & Arpels, appears as a choreography of movement. The Chrysanthemum Clip, crafted with the Mystery Set technique that hides every prong, reveals petals with a sensual, three-dimensional softness inspired in part by Japonisme. The Chantilly Zip Necklace showcases the Maison’s audacity: a zipper transformed into a jewel, sliding effortlessly between necklace and bracelet.

“Loop Brooch,” 1919, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
“Loop Brooch,” 1919, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

For those who love jewelry as an expression of culture, memory, and emotion, this exhibition offers more than an archive. It offers a conversation—between past and present, between craftsmanship and imagination, between Art Deco’s bold geometry and the Maison’s unending pursuit of beauty.

Tokyo Metropolitan Teien Art Museum
5-21-9 Shirokanedai, Minato-ku, Tokyo
Hours: 10:00–18:00 (select dates until 20:00)
Closed: Mondays and designated holidays
Admission: Adults ¥1,400; University students ¥1,120; High school students and seniors 70+ ¥700
Timed reservation required.

“Lapel Watch,” 1921, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection
“Lapel Watch,” 1921, Van Cleef & Arpels Collection

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